BILL ANALYSIS                                                                                                                                                                                                    Ó






                                                                    AB 2539


                                                                     Page A


          Date of Hearing:  April 6, 2016


                     ASSEMBLY COMMITTEE ON LABOR AND EMPLOYMENT


                               Roger Hernández, Chair


          AB 2539  
          (Levine) - As Amended March 30, 2016


          SUBJECT:  Modeling agencies:  licensure:  models:  employees


          SUMMARY:  Establishes various requirements regarding models and  
          modeling agencies, as specified.  Specifically, this bill:


          1)Defines "model" to mean an artist covered under Wage Order 4  
            of the Industrial Welfare Commission (IWC) who, in the course  
            of his or her occupation, performs modeling services for, or  
            who consents to the transfer of his or her legal right to the  
            use of his or her name, portrait, picture or image for  
            advertising purposes of trade directly to, a retail store, a  
            manufacturer, an advertising agency, a photographer, a  
            publishing company, or a modeling agency.


          2)Defines "modeling services" to mean the appearance by a model  
            in photographic sessions or the engagement of model in runway,  
            live, filmed, or taped performances requiring him or her to  
            pose, provide an example or standard of artistic expression,  
            or to be a representation to show the construction or  
            appearance of some thing or place for purposes of display or  
            advertising.













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          3)Defines a "modeling agency" as a person that facilitates an  
            employment opportunity (as specified) for a model and that  
            holds a valid license under existing law related to talent  
            agencies.


          4)Prohibits a person from engaging in or carrying on the  
            occupation of a modeling agency without first procuring a  
            license under existing law related to talent agencies.


          5)Provides that a model shall be classified as an employee of  
            the person for whom the model's services are directly  
            provided.


          6)Requires the Occupational Safety and Health Standards Board  
            (Standards Board), no later than December 1, 2017, and in  
            consultation with accredited specialists in the prevention and  
            treatment of eating disorders, to adopt an occupational safety  
            and health standard for models.


          7)Specifies that the standard shall have an operative date of  
            September 1, 2018, to be fully complied with by December 31,  
            2018.


          8)Specifies that the standard shall address issues including,  
            but not limited to:


             a)   Protection of the model's rights to health care privacy  
               under federal law and all other provisions of law.


             b)   Workplace safety, especially for minors, including  
               protection from sexual exploitation and sexual predators.












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             c)   Prevention and treatment of eating disorders.


          9)Provides that this bill shall not apply to persons covered  
            under IWC Wage Order 11 (regulating the broadcasting industry)  
            or IWC Wage Order 12 (regulating the motion picture industry).


          10)Contains related legislative findings and declarations. 


          EXISTING LAW:  


          1)Establishes California Occupational Safety and Health Act of  
            1973 to address certain safety and other responsibilities of  
            employers and employees, making violations of Cal OSHA, under  
            certain circumstances, a crime.


          2)Establishes the Department of Industrial Relations to foster,  
            promote, and develop the welfare of the wage earners, to  
            improve, their working conditions, and to advance their  
            opportunities for profitable employment.


          3)Provides for the licensure and regulation of talent agencies  
            by the Labor Commissioner, as defined.


          FISCAL EFFECT:  Unknown


          COMMENTS:  This bill is designed to address health impacts  
          affecting fashion models, largely through framing the concern as  
          a workplace health and safety issue.













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          According to the author:


            "It is clear that the fashion industry has a health  
            problem-one that is not being adequately addressed through  
            voluntary guidelines. However, as has been stated by many  
            models in the industry, the health problem is also a labor  
            problem.  


            The fashion industry's idea of beauty is extreme and without  
            workplace health and safety standards, models will continue to  
            be forced to sacrifice their health for their careers."


          Similarly, according to The Model Alliance:


            "?[M]odels in the U.S. lack?basic workplace protections.  
            Strict rules that govern child actors' working hours and  
            provisions for tutors during professional commitments are not  
            applied to child models, who often work long hours and drop  
            out of school to make the most of their earning ability during  
            their teenage years.  Many models lack affordable health care,  
            which is particularly troubling considering the psychological  
            and health costs on models who anxiously struggle to control  
            their bodies over short-lived careers and are isolated by  
            their frenetic and nomadic lifestyles?


            ?We cannot promote healthy images without taking steps to  
            promote healthy bodies and minds, and that starts with giving  
            the faces of this business a unified voice?Correcting these  
            abuses starts with seeing models through a different lens: not  
            as dehumanized images, but as workers who deserve the same  
            rights and protections as anyone else."<1>





            --------------------------
          <1> http://modelalliance.org/introductory-note










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          Therefore, the author states that the goal of this bill is to  
          develop workplace health and safety standards to protect models.  
           In addition, the bill is designed not only protect the health  
          of the workers themselves, but also that of young people who try  
          to emulate and aspire to be models.


          Health Consequences and Models


          In recent years, there has been "widespread concern that the  
          fashion industry, by promulgating ever-diminishing extremes of  
          thinness, is creating a 'toxic' environment in which eating  
          disorders flourish."<2>


          A recent article in the British Journal of Psychiatry summarized  
          some of the concerns as follows:


            "The current fashion for extreme thinness among models  
            unnecessarily puts their physical and psychological health in  
            jeopardy.  Starvation disrupts growth and reproductive  
            function and can have profound and persistent effects on brain  
            development.  These risks are particularly profound in young  
            women who, in a binge-priming environment, may be more prone  
            to develop other addictive behaviours.  Along with an  
            increased risk of substance and alcohol use and misuse, the  
            risk of developing an eating disorder will also be increased.  
            The longer-term health implications on models' bone and  
            reproductive health are unknown but evidence suggests the  
            outcomes are not promising."<3>


            --------------------------
          <2> Janet L. Treasure, Elizabeth R. Wack and Marion E. Roberts.   
          "Models as a high-risk group: the health implications of a size  
          zero culture."  British Journal of Psychiatry (2008):  
          192(4):243-244.
          <3> Id.










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          According to an online survey<4> of 85 fashion models conducted  
          by The Model Alliance, 31.2 percent of the surveyed models  
          reported having eating disorders, and 64.1 percent reported  
          having been asked to lose weight.  Nearly half of the surveyed  
          models reported doing "fasts," cleanses or other efforts to  
          restrict their food intake over a short period of time in order  
          to lose weight.


          In addition, due to the fact that many models are considered to  
          be independent contractors rather than employees (whether or not  
          they are in fact properly classified), nearly 30 percent of the  
          surveyed models reported that they lacked health insurance.


          Beyond the Catwalk - Possible Societal Implications of Modeling


          Concern has also been expressed that extreme thinness in fashion  
          models impacts not only the models themselves, but also has  
          larger societal implications - particularly for adolescent  
          girls.


          The National Association of Anorexia Nervosa and Associated  
          Disorders reports that the media and model images have a  
          tremendous influence on young people.  Specifically, they  
          cite<5> evidence that:


                 The body type portrayed in advertising as the ideal is  
               possessed naturally by only 5 percent of American females.
                 47 percent of girls in 5th through 12th grade reported  
               wanting to lose weight because of magazine pictures.
             --------------------------

          <4> http://modelalliance.org/industry-analysis

          <5>  
          http://www.anad.org/get-information/about-eating-disorders/eating 
          -disorders-statistics/









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                 69 percent of girls in 5th through 12th grade reported  
               that magazine pictures influenced their idea of a perfect  
               body shape.

                 42 percent of 1st through 3rd grade girls want to be  
               thinner.

                 81 percent of 10 year olds are afraid of being  
               overweight.

          Recent Efforts in Other Countries


          The author states that this bill is part of a growing global  
          movement to address worries about models' workplace safety and  
          related public health concerns.  For example:


                 In 2006, organizers of Madrid Fashion Week became the  
               first to implement a code of conduct to ban models deemed  
               underweight according to their body mass index (BMI), a  
               ratio of weight to height. Italy followed suit shortly  
               thereafter, requiring models to provide a certificate of  
               health before they can work the runway.
                 In 2013, Israel went a step further by adopting  
               legislation stipulating that fashion and commercial models  
               must meet minimum BMI requirements.

                 Most recently, in 2015, France's National Assembly  
               passed a law that requires models to have a medical  
               certificate deeming them fit to work. 

          Provisions Proposed by this Bill


          In general, this bill proposes to enact three main provisions  
          related to models and modeling.  First, this bill prohibits a  
          person from engaging in or carrying on the occupation of a  











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          modeling agency without first procuring a license under existing  
          law related to talent agencies.  Second, this bill provides that  
          a model shall be classified as an employee of the person for  
          whom the model's services are directly provided.  Third, this  
          bill requires the OSHA Standards Board to adopt an occupational  
          safety and health standard for models, as specified.


          


          Requiring Modeling Agencies to be Licensed Talent Agencies





          Since 1959, California law has regulated "talent agencies" by,  
          among other things, requiring the licensure of such agencies  
          with the Labor Commissioner.  This statute has largely been  
          referred to as the Talent Agents Act (TAA).


          Existing law defines a "talent agency" as a person or  
          corporation who engages in the occupation of procuring,  
          offering, promising, or attempting to procure employment or  
          engagements for an artist or artists.  Talent agencies may, in  
          addition, counsel or direct artists in the development of their  
          professional careers.  (Labor Code Section 1700.4(a)).





          Existing law defines an "artist" to mean actors and actresses  
          rendering services on the legitimate stage and in the production  
          of motion pictures, radio artists, musical artists, musical  
          organizations, directors of legitimate stage, motion picture and  
          radio productions, musical directors, writers, cinematographers,  











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          composers, lyricists, arrangers, models, and other artists and  
          persons rendering professional services in motion picture,  
          theatrical, radio, television and other entertainment  
          enterprises.  (Labor Code Section 1700.4(b)).





          In general, a talent agency does not charge an up-front fee but  
          instead procures employment for an artist and then charges a  
          commission fee or similar compensation.  However, prior to 1999,  
          California law did not regulate persons engaged in the  
          solicitation of advance-fee payments from an artist prior to  
          employment being secured.  At the time, concerns were expressed  
          that unscrupulous individuals were posing as talent agents or  
          talent managers and were requesting large payments in exchange  
          for promises of employment that they could never deliver.  


          That changed with the enactment of AB 884 (Kuehl), Chapter 626,  
          Statutes of 1999.  Among other things, AB 884 required a  
          contract between an advance-fee talent service and an artist to  
          be in writing and to contain specified provisions, including a  
          right to cancel the contract and to receive a refund, as  
          specified.  The bill also required an advance-fee talent service  
          to file a bond or deposit in the amount of $10,000 with the  
          Labor Commissioner.  Subsequent legislation, AB 2860 (Kuehl),  
          Chapter 878, Statutes of 2000, corrected a drafting error to  
          narrow the law to avoid regulating individuals who served merely  
          as photographers, costume designers, drama coaches or in similar  
          occupations but not engaging in advance-fee talent services.  In  
          2005, legislation was enacted to close an alleged loophole in  
          which unscrupulous individuals were finding a way around the law  
          by continuing to charge up-front fees for photographs or  
          "casting kits" while indicating that these services will lead to  
          employment.  That measure was enacted as SB 1687 (Murray)  
          Chapter 2008, Statutes of 2004.  The advanced-fee talent  
          services provisions were further revised and recast under AB  











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          1319 (Krekorian), Chapter 286, Statutes of 2009.


          The supporters of this bill argue that many (but not all)  
          modeling agencies are already licensed as talent agencies under  
          existing law, affording models the protections that apply to  
          talent agencies, such as registration with the Labor  
          Commissioner and other requirements.  This bill would prohibit a  
          person from engaging in or carrying on the occupation of a  
          modeling agency without first procuring a license under the  
          existing law related to talent agencies.


          Employment Status and Misclassification





          Employee misclassification has become a serious problem in the  
          United States, and particularly in California.  When companies  
          misclassify workers as independent contractors instead of as  
          employees, these workers do not receive worker protections,  
          including minimum wages, overtime pay, and other protection to  
          which they would otherwise be entitled.  Additionally,  
          businesses do not deduct taxes, 401(k), Social Security, or  
          Medicare payments from the paychecks of independent contractors,  
          which results in a loss of state tax income from the businesses  
          as well as a potential loss of income from the individual worker  
          who may not properly report income.  Because employers do not  
          pay unemployment taxes for independent contractors, workers who  
          are misclassified cannot obtain unemployment benefits if they  
          lose their jobs.


          A number of reports in the last several years have chronicled  
          the societal consequences of and impacts upon American workers  
          of misclassification of workers as independent contractors  
          versus employees.  The United States Government Accountability  











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          Office conducted a study of misclassification of workers as  
          independent contractors and found that employee  
          misclassification cost the United States government $2.72  
          billion in revenue from Social Security, unemployment and income  
          taxes in 2006 alone.  (GAO, Employee Misclassifications:   
          Improved Outreach Could Help Ensure Proper Worker  
          Classification, GAO-07-859T (May 8, 2007), pg. 1.)


          Similarly, in California EDD reported that the number of  
          misclassified employees increased 54 percent from 2005 to 2007,  
          reaching 15,751 workers in 2007. During this 3-year period, the  
          EDD recovered a total of $111,956,556 in payroll tax  
          assessments, $18,537,894 in labor code citations, and  
          $40,348,667 in assessments on employment tax fraud cases.  (See  
          California Employment Development Department, Annual Report:  
          Fraud Deterrence and Detection Activities, report to the  
          California Legislature (June 2008))  A Daily Journal article  
          reported on the recent increase in worker misclassification and  
          one person interviewed for the article noted that worker  
          misclassification is attractive to employers because they can  
          cut their labor costs by up to 30 percent by moving to an  
          independent contractor model.  (Ho, Independent Contractor  
          Status Raises IRS Eyebrows:  Contractor Status is Cheaper for  
          Employers; Some Workers are Crying Foul, Daily Journal (May 17,  
          2010).)


          These concerns led to the passage of SB 459 (Corbett) from 2011,  
          which established significant civil penalties for the  
          intentional misclassification


          "Statutory Employees" and Previous Legislation
















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          In general, most individuals are determined to be employees  
          under common law, which involves evaluating a number of specific  
          factors.  However, a "statutory employee" is defined as an  
          employee by law under a specific statute.





          For example, Unemployment Insurance Code Section 621 deems  
          certain groups of workers to be employees for purposes of  
          certain employment tax purposes.  These "statutory employees"  
          include corporate officers, specified agent/commission drivers,  
          traveling salespersons, certain home workers, and certain  
          artists and authors.





          AB 950 (John A. Pérez) of 2011 would have deemed port drayage  
          drivers to be employees for employment law purposes.  AB 950 was  
          moved to the Inactive File on the Assembly floor.





          AB 202 (Gonzalez) from 2015 provided that specified professional  
          sports "cheerleaders" shall be deemed to be employees for state  
          employment law purposes.





          As stated above, this bill would provide that a model shall be  
          classified as an employee of the person for whom the model's  
          services are directly provided.  Although the facts of a given  











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          case can vary, supporters of this bill cite to case law such as  
          Zaremba v. Miller, 113 Cal. App. 3d Supp. 1 (1980), which found  
          that the relationship of employer-employee existed between a  
          model and a photographer.





          In addition, a 2006 California Supreme Court case involved a  
          model who worked on a job assignment that lasted only one day.   
          Smith v. L'Oreal, 39 Cal. 4th 77 (2006).  In that case, the  
          model performed work as a "hair model" at a show featuring  
          L'Oreal products and a hair stylist.  The model sat on stage in  
          front of an audience as her hair was colored and styled, and  
          then walked the runway a few times.  After the show, the  
          defendant did not pay the model the $500 in wages it owed her,  
          but waited over two months to do so.  The court concluded that  
          an employee who worked on a job assignment of short duration was  
          not excluded from the provisions of existing law that require  
          payment of wages immediately upon discharge from employment, and  
          that this occurs either when an employee is involuntarily  
          terminated from an ongoing employment relationship or when an  
          employee is released after completing the specific job  
          assignment or time duration for which the employee was hired.





          


          OSHA Standard
















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          As discussed above, particular concern has been expressed  
          regarding various health and safety issues involving models and  
          modeling.  Therefore, this bill would require the OSHA Standards  
          Board, in consultation with accredited specialists in the  
          prevention and treatment of eating disorders, to adopt an  
          occupational safety and health standard for models.  The bill  
          specifies that the standard shall address issues including, but  
          not limited to (1) protection of the model's rights to health  
          care privacy under federal law and all other provisions of law,  
          (2) workplace safety, especially for minors, including  
          protection from sexual exploitation and sexual predators, and  
          (3) prevention and treatment of eating disorders.


          


          Arguments in Support





          Supporters of this bill, including The Model Alliance, argue  
          that this bill would address numerous labor, health and safety  
          issues faced by fashion models in California.

          They contend that most professional models are young women who  
          begin their careers as adolescents and work in a largely  
          unregulated industry. Models routinely face pressures including  
          nudity, sexual demands, starvation dieting and difficulty  
          getting paid monies owed. These abuses they suffer may have  
          long-lasting repercussions on their health and wellbeing.
          Many models experience pressures to be unhealthily thin. Models  
          have reported becoming sick and some have even died from  
          complications due to anorexia-in one case, just after stepping  
          off a runway. 

          They argue that lack of financial transparency and resulting  











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          wage theft is a widespread problem in the modeling industry.   
          Most models have low bargaining power and are frequently not  
          paid all of their earned wages, are paid wages late, are paid  
                                       only after complaining about non-payment, are paid in "trade,"  
          meaning clothes, or are simply not paid at all.

          The labor abuses in the modeling industry are as common as they  
          are difficult for models to report without risking their job.  
          Like fashion itself, the modeling industry moves in short cycles  
          and there is a huge reservoir of fresh talent, which leaves  
          models feeling easily replaceable.  They argue that ensuring  
          that modeling agencies are licensed and regulated as talent  
          agencies would increase the level of financial transparency and  
          accountability in the modeling industry and protect models from  
          sexual and financial exploitation.  In addition, models deserve  
          protection necessary for a safe and healthy work environment.

          The National Eating Disorders Association states that eating  
          disorders affect nearly 30 million Americans at some time in  
          their lives.  They are highly complex, serious mental health  
          conditions which impact every organ system in the body, and have  
          the highest mortality rate of any mental illness.  Once an  
          eating disorder takes hold, it is very difficult to reverse.   
          The physical, emotional, and financial toll these illnesses take  
          on families can be devastating.  They state that eating  
          disorders are widespread in the fashion industry - a  
          high-pressure business that relies on the labor of young models.  
           These are devastating illnesses that are too often dismissed or  
          overlooked.  This legislation not only aims to set  
          desperately-needed health standards for the modeling industry,  
          it quite literally has the power to save lives.

          The California Labor Federation, AFL-CIO argues that this bill  
          seeks to ensure that models have effective health and safety  
          protections under the law by requiring that all modeling  
          agencies be licensed with the Labor Commissioner and clarifying  
          that models are statutory employees. These provisions will help  
          ensure that models are covered and protected by existing and  
          proposed health and safety standards.  They also note that the  











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          under the process for a proposed health and safety standard for  
          models, employers, workers, and other experts will come together  
          to discuss the specifics of these standards and draft a clear  
          regulatory framework that reflects the best available medical  
          evidence and will, once in effect, keep workers safe from the  
          ravages of sexual exploitation, eating disorders, and other  
          health and safety concerns that may arise during the advisory  
          committee process.
          
          Arguments in Opposition





          Opponents, including the Association of Talent Agents (ATA)  
          argue that this bill creates major disruption and legal  
          confusion for state licensed talent agencies, doesn't resolve  
          the real issue, and is unworkable.





          First, ATA notes that the definition of "model" in this bill  
          includes the name and likeness of the model.  They contend that  
          this is beyond the scope of artists' services contained in the  
          TAA and causes confusion.





          Second, they argue that the bill is redundant because it seeks  
          to require what is already required - that modeling agencies  
          engaged in the occupation of procuring or attempting to procure  
          employment for "artists" services (including models) be licensed  
          by the Labor Commissioner. They state that the Labor  
          Commissioner has issued countless rulings on the fact that  











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          models are artists covered under the (TAA), and that therefore  
          the bill serves no discernable purpose.





          Third, ATA opposes the provision of the bill that statutorily  
          mandates that models shall be employees.  They argue that the  
          law is clear that the classification of a worker as either an  
          employee or an independent contractor depends, among other  
          things, on the circumstances of the work performed and the  
          degree of control over the worker. Because the bill requires  
          models to be classified as employees in every case regardless of  
          the circumstances of the particular job, ATA argues that it  
          conflicts with well-established law, does not reflect the  
          realities of the work environment and unfairly prejudices models  
          (and other artists) who exhibit control over their work and  
          structure their business as independent contractors.





          ATA also opposes the proposed development of an OSHA workplace  
          health and safety standard for models, as provided for in this  
          bill, stating: "The bill provides no definition for what  
          constitutes 'healthy' and encourages possible discrimination  
          against artists with disabilities if their condition falls  
          outside of definition of healthy. The bill also discourages  
          diversity among body shapes within the industry, with respect to  
          both slender and plus-size models. To the extent the purpose of  
          the bill is to make 'media images more healthful', the bill  
          impermissibly restricts freedom of expression."  In addition,  
          ATA expresses concern that the development of such a standard  
          would impose duties upon the modeling agencies, such as making  
          sure that each model it represents has met the standard and is  
          healthy to perform modeling services.












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          Finally, ATA objects to the provision of the bill that excludes  
          certain employees covered under IWC Wage Order 11 (regulating  
          the broadcasting industry) or IWC Wage Order 12 (regulating the  
          motion picture industry).  They state that this causes an  
          untenable and impossible-to-comply- with regulatory system. The  
          models and modeling agencies work in all areas of the  
          entertainment business. To mandate completely different  
          standards for the same model and the same modeling agency when  
          rendering the same services for different platforms cannot work.


          ATA concludes that they and their member companies are committed  
          to promoting the health and well-being of all artists.  While  
          they appreciate the intent of the bill, they claim that it is  
          unworkable.  


          REGISTERED SUPPORT / OPPOSITION:




          Support


          Academy for Eating Disorders


          California Labor Federation, AFL-CIO


          Eating Disorder Hope


          Eating Disorder Therapy LA


          Multi-Service Eating Disorder Association












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          National Eating Disorders Association


          Numerous Individuals


          Schroder Davis PLC


          Strategic Training Initiative for the Prevention of Eating  
          Disorders


          The Model Alliance




          Opposition


          Alvarado Rey Agency


          Angel City Talent


          Association of Talent Agents


          BBA Talent


          CESD Talent Agency


          Clear Talent Group












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          Commercial Talent


          Don Buchwald & Associates Inc.


          Go 2 Talent Agency


          Maverick Artists Agency, Inc.


          Nous Model Management


          Rebel Entertainment Partners, Inc.


          Sports Unlimited Talent Agency


          The Corsa Agency




          Analysis Prepared by:Eva Lieu/Ben Ebbink / L. & E. / (916)  
          319-2091





















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