BILL ANALYSIS                                                                                                                                                                                                    






                             SENATE JUDICIARY COMMITTEE
                           Senator Ellen M. Corbett, Chair
                              2009-2010 Regular Session


          AB 1656 (Ma and Lieu)
          As Amended March 23, 2010
          Hearing Date: June 15, 2010
          Fiscal: No
          Urgency: No
          BCP:jd
                    

                                        SUBJECT
                                           
                               Fur Products: Labeling

                                      DESCRIPTION  

          This bill would require a person who sells or displays any  
          clothing apparel for sale that is made wholly or partially of  
          fur to attach a conspicuously displayed tag or label that  
          includes the following information:
                 the names of the animal or animals from which the fur  
               was acquired;
                 the country of origin of any imported furs used.

          This bill would subject violators to a civil penalty of not more  
          than $500 for the first violation, and not more than $1,000 for  
          each subsequent violation.  

          This bill would provide that a retail merchant is not liable for  
          a violation if a manufacturer or supplier for the merchant  
          provided a specified certification to that merchant.

                                      BACKGROUND  

          In 1951, Congress enacted the Fur Products Labeling Act, which  
          requires the labeling of fur garments.  Those labels must  
          include, among other things, the name of the species,  
          manufacturer, and county of origin.  That Act also contained an  
          exemption for products with a "relatively small quantity or  
          value" of fur - the Federal Trade Commission has applied that  
          exemption to: (1) fur products where the cost to the  
          manufacturer for the fur does not exceed $150; or (2) fur  
          products where the selling price does not exceed $150.   
                                                                (more)



          AB 1656 (Ma and Lieu)
          Page 2 of ?



          According to recent testimony by Michael Markarian, Chief  
          Operating Officer of the Humane Society of the United States,  
          the prices for pelts range from $5 for a rabbit to around $150  
          for a bear or timber wolf.  As a result of that low cost for  
          pelts, many fur garments are not covered by the labeling  
          requirements of the federal Fur Products Labeling Act.

          This bill, sponsored by the Humane Society of the United States,  
          seeks to address the gap in coverage under federal law by  
          requiring all clothing apparel, regardless of price, that is  
          made wholly or partially of fur to be labeled or tagged.

                                CHANGES TO EXISTING LAW
           
           Existing federal law  , the Fur Products Labeling Act, prohibits  
          the manufacture for sale, sale, advertising, transportation, or  
          distribution of any fur product which has been shipped and  
          received in commerce, and which is misbranded or falsely or  
          deceptively advertised or invoiced, as defined.  Those and other  
          related acts are deemed unlawful, are an unfair method of  
          competition, and an unfair and deceptive practice in commerce  
          under the Federal Trade Commission Act. (15 U.S.C. 69 et seq.;  
          15 U.S.C. 41 et seq.)

           Existing federal regulation  exempts a fur product from the  
          requirements of the Fur Products Labeling Act if: (1) the cost  
          to the manufacturer of any fur trim or other manufactured fur or  
          furs contained in a fur product does not exceed $150; or (2) if  
          a manufacturer's selling price of a fur product does not exceed  
          $150.  That exemption is not applicable:
                 to any dog or cat fur product;
                 if any false, deceptive, or misleading representations  
               as to the fur contained in the fur product are made; or
                 if any representations as to the fur are made in the  
               labeling, invoicing, or advertising without disclosing  
               specified information, including the name of the animal  
               that produced the fur, whether the fur is bleached or dyed,  
               and whether the fur is composed in substantial part of  
               paws, tails, bellies, or waste fur. (16 C.F.R. 301.39.)

           Existing federal regulation  provides that when a fur product is  
          exempt, the manufacturer shall maintain records showing the cost  
          of the fur used in the product, or copies of invoices showing  
          the selling price, if that price is used as the basis for  
          exemption.  (16 C.F.R. 301.39.)
           
                                                                      



          AB 1656 (Ma and Lieu)
          Page 3 of ?



          Existing federal law  defines "fur product" as any article of  
          wearing apparel made in whole or in part of fur or used fur, as  
          specified.  (15 U.S.C. 69(d).)  Existing federal regulation  
          defines "wearing apparel" as any articles of clothing or  
          covering for any part of the body, which includes any assembled  
          furs, used furs, or waste furs, in attached form, including  
          mats, plates or garment shells or furs flat off the board, and  
          furs which have been dyed, tip-dyed, bleached or artificially  
          colored, intended for use as or in wearing apparel. (16 C.F.R.  
          301.1.)

           This bill  would prohibit a person from selling or displaying for  
          sale any coat, jacket, garment, or other clothing apparel made  
          wholly or partially of fur, regardless of the price of the  
          apparel or the amount or value of the fur contained therein,  
          without attaching a conspicuously displayed tag or label that  
          includes the following:
                 the names of the animal or animals, as set forth in the  
               Fur Products Name Guide maintained by the Federal Trade  
               Commission, from which the fur was acquired; and
                 the country of origin of any imported furs used.

           This bill  would specify that labeling of clothing apparel may be  
          accomplished by adding the required disclosures to the permanent  
          tag attached to the clothing, to the temporary tag used by the  
          merchant to identify the merchandise, or by affixing to the  
          article of clothing, in a conspicuous place, a sticker listing  
          the required disclosures.

           This bill  would not apply to a person that displays for sale,  
          offers for sale, or sells any used article of clothing made  
          wholly or partly of animal fur.

           This bill  would provide that any violation of this act is  
          subject to a civil penalty of not more than $500 for the first  
          violation, and not more than $1,000 for each subsequent  
          violation.  Each article of clothing that is not labeled  
          constitutes a separate violation.

           This bill  would provide that a retail merchant is not liable for  
          a violation of this act if a manufacturer or supplier for the  
          merchant certified to that merchant, in the invoice or other  
          written document describing the clothing apparel, that any tag  
          or label attached by the manufacturer or supplier conforms to  
          the requirements of this act, unless the retail merchant knew,  
          or reasonably should have known, that the certification is  
                                                                      



          AB 1656 (Ma and Lieu)
          Page 4 of ?



          false.

           This bill  would state that nothing in this act shall be  
          construed to preempt any federal law, or any other statute that  
          prohibits or restricts the sale of fur products.  If any  
          provision of this act or the application thereof to any person  
          or circumstance is held to be preempted by federal law, the  
          preemption shall not affect other provisions or applications of  
          the title that can be given effect.

           This bill  would become operative on September 1, 2011.

                                        COMMENT
           
          1.   Stated need for the bill  

          According to the author:

            More than 1,000,000 items of clothing or accessories that  
            contain animal fur are sold in the United States each year.   
            The federal Fur Products Labeling Act and related  
            regulations require all garments with real animal fur valued  
            at more than $150 to indicate species and country of origin  
            on clothing labels.  However, federal law exempts from  
            labeling requirements products with animal fur valued at  
            $150 or less.  The Federal Trade Commission estimates that 1  
            in 8 fur-trimmed garments are exempt from fur labeling. 

            Due to the vast number of fur factory farms around the world  
            that mass produce raccoon dogs, rabbits, foxes, and other  
            animals at a low-cost, and garment manufacturers' ability to  
            piece together cheap leftover fur pelts, it is common for  
            garments trimmed with real fur to be unlabeled under the  
            federal loophole. 

            California consumers have the right to know what they are  
            buying and what they are wearing, regardless of the value of  
            the fur involved.  AB 1656 addresses the federal loophole by  
            requiring all garments sold in California that contain  
            animal fur to say so on the label.

          2.   Closing the "loophole" in federal law  

          The federal Fur Products Labeling Act generally requires the  
          labeling of fur products that enter into commerce and the  
          failure to do so is considered an unfair and deceptive act or  
                                                                      



          AB 1656 (Ma and Lieu)
          Page 5 of ?



          practice under the Federal Trade Commission Act.  (15 U.S.C 69  
          et seq.)  Federal regulations exempt fur products from those  
          labeling requirements if:  (1) the cost of the fur in a fur  
          product does not exceed $150 to the manufacturer of the finished  
          product; or (2) a manufacturer's selling price of the fur  
          product does not exceed $150.  That exemption does not apply if  
          there is dog or cat fur in the product, in the case of any  
          false, deceptive or misleading representation, or if  
          representations as to the fur are made in the labeling,  
          invoicing, or advertising without disclosing specified  
          information.  Considering that the last exemption applies only  
          where a product that would otherwise be exempt is labeled - the  
          federal regulations arguably act to disincentivize the labeling  
          of exempt products.

          This bill seeks to address that "loophole" in federal law which  
          exempts fur products from those labeling requirements if the  
          cost of the fur, or the product, does not exceed $150.  The  
          Humane Society of the United States, sponsor, contends that the  
          gap in the application of federal law "exempts about 1 in 8  
          fur-trimmed garments from having to reveal anything about the  
          animal fur - it simply is not mentioned on the label."  To  
          address that issue, this bill would require the labeling of  
          clothing apparel made wholly or partially of fur regardless of  
          price.  That broad labeling requirement would not only fill in  
          the gap in federal law but also technically apply to products  
          that are currently covered under the federal Fur Products  
          Labeling Act.  (See Comment 3.)

          3.    Overlap with the federal Fur Products Labeling Act and its  
            implementing regulations  

          By requiring the labeling of all clothing apparel that is made  
          wholly or partially of fur, AB 1656 would technically require  
          the labeling of both garments that are exempted from federal law  
          and those which are required to be labeled under the Fur  
          Products Labeling Act.  Although this bill would directly  
          overlap with regards to apparel that is not exempted from the  
          Fur Products Labeling Act, the labeling requirements imposed by  
          both provisions appear compatible.  Thus, a retailer that  
          complies with federal law would meet the requirements of AB  
          1656.
          a.   Labeling consistent with federal law  

            This bill would require a tag or label to include the names of  
            both of the following: (1) the animal or animals, as set forth  
                                                                      



          AB 1656 (Ma and Lieu)
          Page 6 of ?



            in the Fur Products Name Guide maintained by the Federal Trade  
            Commission, from which the animal fur was acquired; and (2)  
            the country of origin of any imported furs used.  Those two  
            requirements are consistent with the federal requirements  
            contained in 15 U.S.C. 69b(2)(A) and (F).  

            It should be noted that federal law does require information  
            in addition to the two elements required by AB 1656, including  
            whether the clothing contains used or artificially colored  
            fur, or if it is composed in whole or in substantial part of  
            paws, tails, bellies, or waste fur.  From a policy standpoint,  
            the two disclosures required by this bill (type of animal and  
            country of origin) appear to be the items of most interest to  
            consumers who may currently be unaware that they are  
            purchasing a product that contains real animal fur.

            This bill would permit the labeling of clothing apparel to be  
            accomplished by adding the disclosures to a permanent or  
            temporary tag, or by affixing a sticker in a conspicuous  
            place.  Although federal law does not contain the same level  
            of specificity with regards to labeling, labels that are  
            provided under federal law in the above fashion would appear  
            to meet both requirements.

          b.    Preemption  

            Pursuant to the supremacy clause contained in Article VI of  
            the United States Constitution, the law and treaties made by  
            the federal government are the supreme law of the land.  Since  
            federal law is supreme, when there is a conflict between state  
            and federal law, federal law prevails (or in other words,  
            "preempts" state law.).  

            There are several different types of preemption - the two most  
            common being express preemption and implied preemption.   
            Express preemption occurs where Congress specifically includes  
            language providing that State law is preempted.  Implied  
            preemption occurs in several circumstances, including where  
            federal law is "so pervasive as to make reasonable the  
            inference that Congress left no room for the States to  
            supplement it," (Rice v. Santa Fe Elevator Corp. (1947) 331  
            U.S. 218, 230.), where compliance with both federal and state  
            law is impossible, and where state law impedes the achievement  
            of a federal objective.  

            In this case, federal law requires the labeling of fur  
                                                                      



          AB 1656 (Ma and Lieu)
          Page 7 of ?



            products but exempts specified products based upon the sales  
            price or the value of the fur.  AB 1656 applies labeling  
            requirements to those products, but also applies those same  
            requirements to those already covered by federal law.  The  
            federal Fur Products Labeling Act does not contain any  
            specific language either permitting states to enact similar  
            labeling requirements or prohibiting states from doing so.  It  
            also appears possible to comply with both AB 1656 and federal  
            law (although federal labeling requirements are more  
            comprehensive), and AB 1656 does not appear to impede the  
            achievement of the objective of the federal Act (unless that  
            objective was to not label the exempted products).  Despite  
            that apparent compatibility, this bill would still enact a  
            provision in state law that would directly overlap with  
            federal law - if any question is raised as to which prevails,  
            the federal law would be supreme.

            The author further asserts that five other states have passed  
            similar legislation - New York, Massachusetts, New Jersey,  
            Delaware, and Wisconsin.  Committee staff notes that no  
            information has been provided, or discovered, which indicates  
            that similar legislation in those states has been found to be  
            preempted.

            It should also be noted that AB 1656 contains a savings clause  
            that would act to preserve non-preempted provisions or  
            applications of the bill should it be found to be preempted by  
            federal law.  That provision also includes a statement that  
            "[n]othing in this title shall be construed to preempt any  
            federal law, or any other statute that prohibits or restricts  
            the sale of fur products."  Since state law cannot preempt  
            federal law, that provision would essentially codify the  
            existing principle that federal law prevails under the  
            supremacy clause.  

          4.   Consumer impact of unlabeled fur and false advertising 

          Regarding the prevalence of unlabeled and falsely advertised fur  
          clothing, the Humane Society of the United States (HSUS)  
          contends:

            An ongoing investigation by The HSUS over the last three  
            years has revealed that retailers including Nordstrom,  
            Loehmann's, Rocawear, Bluefly, and Saks Fifth Avenue were  
            selling falsely advertised and unlabeled fur-trimmed  
            jackets.  The brands involved included Oscar de la Renta,  
                                                                      



          AB 1656 (Ma and Lieu)
          Page 8 of ?



            Rocawear, and Burberry.  Several of these jackets were sold  
            as "faux" fur when they were in fact raccoon dog, domestic  
            dog, or rabbit fur.  Others were advertised as "raccoon" or  
            "rabbit" fur when in fact the fur was raccoon dog.  Other  
            unlabeled animal fur garments were found in stores including  
            Burlington Coat Factory, Ross and TJ Maxx, by brands  
            including Sean John, Bill Bass and Nicole Miller.

          The policy question raised by this bill is whether consumers  
          should be informed about the fur contained within their garment.  
           Those consumers, in general, may have difficulty determining  
          whether a product in a store contains real or fake fur.  For  
          those with allergies, or ethical objections to purchasing real  
          fur, the disclosure required by AB 1656 would provide valuable  
          information.  That disclosure would also serve to highlight the  
          use of certain animals, such as the raccoon dog, which the  
          sponsor asserts is "perhaps the most widely unlabeled and  
          misrepresented species in the United States." The author adds  
          that "[m]any consumers and salespeople currently mistake  
          unlabeled animal fur to be fake.  Consumers have a right to know  
          what they are buying, especially concerning a material that so  
          many strongly object to."

          With regards to false advertising of fur products, the civil  
          penalties included in the bill would provide an additional  
          deterrent and a mechanism for enforcement officials to address  
          those violations of the bill's labeling requirements.  (See  
          Comment 6.)

          5.   Scope 

          The labeling requirements of this bill would apply to "clothing  
          apparel," which is defined as any articles of clothing or  
          covering for any part of the body.   That definition would  
          essentially cover items that are worn.  Other items, such purses  
          or accessories would not be subject to the labeling  
          requirements.  It should be noted that federal law similarly  
          defines fur product as "any article of wearing apparel made in  
          whole or in part of fur or used fur."  (15 U.S.C. 69 (d).  

          The bill would also not apply to used clothing that is made  
          wholly or partially of animal fur.  That exemption would protect  
          second hand stores, flea markets, garage sales, and other  
          circumstances where a person has purchased a fur item and the  
          label or sticker that was affixed by the original manufacturer  
          has subsequently fallen off.
                                                                      



          AB 1656 (Ma and Lieu)
          Page 9 of ?




          6.   Remedies  

          This bill would further provide that violators are subject to a  
          civil penalty of not more than $500 for the first violation, and  
          not more than $1,000 for each subsequent violation.  The bill is  
          silent on who can seek that civil penalty, but, as a general  
          rule, civil penalties are recoverable by certain public officers  
          (city attorney, district attorney, county counsel, or Attorney  
          General).  The process of those officers bringing enforcement  
          actions would likely be complaint driven.

          To address issues relating to the receipt of goods from a  
          manufacturer or suppliers, this bill would provide that a retail  
          merchant is not liable for a violation if their manufacturer or  
          supplier certified that any tag or label attached by that  
          manufacturer or supplier complies with the requirements of the  
          bill.  That exemption from liability would not apply if the  
          merchant knew, or should have known, that the certification was  
          false.  Considering the merchant would likely not have direct  
          knowledge as to how their products were constructed, that  
          liability provision would appear to protect their "good faith"  
          reliance upon a manufacturer or supplier.  Additionally, the  
          "knew, or should have known," language would appear to address a  
          situation where a manufacturer flagrantly violates the bill or  
          remains willfully ignorant of the fur contained within their  
          garments.

          7.   Federal legislation also being sought to close the  
          "loophole" in federal law  

          In addition to the present bill, the Humane Society of the  
          United States is also seeking the passage of the Truth in Fur  
          Labeling Act (H.R. 2480).  That Act similarly seeks to close the  
          above discussed "loophole" in federal law that permits fur  
          garments to go unlabeled if the value of the fur is less than  
          $150.  
           Support  :  One individual

           Opposition  :  None Known

                                        HISTORY
           
           Source  :  Humane Society of the United States

           Related Pending Legislation  :  None Known
                                                                      



          AB 1656 (Ma and Lieu)
          Page 10 of ?




           Prior Legislation  :  None Known

           Prior Vote  :

          Assembly Judiciary Committee (Ayes 9, Noes 0)
          Assembly Floor (Ayes 59, Noes 11)

                                   **************